© 2013 by Guy Magallanes.  All rights reserved.

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Rhododendron -
Friday Class Project

Here's our line drawing showing where we are going to apply masking on the areas marked in green. Please note the two orange areas.
Left Orange area - Do not add this to the image when transferring to your paper.

Right Orange area - Do not add masking to this area.

Here's a Video showing how I masked the areas.

Below - Here's what the image looks like after applying the masking and how it looks when it's completely dry.

Here's a video showing the first pass of adding Transparent Yellow - wet on wet.

Here's what the image looks like after applying the first wash of Transparent Yellow.

Next is a video adding a second pass of Transparent Yellow, wet on wet.

Here's what the image looks like after applying the second glaze of Transparent Yellow working wet on wet.

Now we're ready to apply the second pass of masking, indicated by the green areas. Don't add masking to the areas circled in orange.

Here's a video applying the second pass of masking.

Here's what the image looks like after applying the masking.

Applying the first glaze of Permanent Rose - wet on wet.

Here's what it looks like after the first pass of Permanent Rose.

Here's a video adding the second glaze of Permanent Rose, wet on wet.

Here's what it looks like after the second glaze of Permanent Rose.

Here's a video applying the first glaze of Thalo Blue wet on wet.

Here's what it looks like after applying the Thalo Blue glaze.

Now I'm evening up all the areas in my painting that need attention. I'm working wet on wet on the upper left hand side so I can move the yellow further, and then I'm going to even up the circle area so the colors match. And then I'm going to start breaking up the large shapes into smaller shapes.

Here's what it looks like when I'm done

I turned the camera on but forgot to hit record at the beginning of what I started! I worked the upper right area getting it wet with clear water than added Permanent Rose and a little Thalo Blue to the upper right while wet, letting the colors soften and spread. Then again working to add more definition by working the smaller shapes.

Here's what it looks like when done.

Working Big Glazes of Thalo Blue, wet on wet and dividing the page into two sections.

Here's what it looks like when done.

Now that we've added some big glazes, we can start working on adding some detail to the smaller shapes working with Permanent Rose.

Here's what it looks like after applying the steps from the above video

Working to adjust the greenish hue on the upper right hand corner, and then a second video adding more Permanent Rose to the center of the two main flowers.

Here's what the image looks like after the two above videos.

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Now to settle everything with a LIGHT unifying glaze of Thalo Blue - wet on wet

Here's what it looks like after the unifying glaze

In the next video we're going to add a LIGHT Glaze of Thalo Blue to connect and soften the bottom of the flower.

Here's  what it looks like when finished adding the glaze

Once dry, we're going to add the last bit of masking before adding the darks!

Here's what it looks like after adding the masking.

Now we're going to add Neutral Tint to the image, and it's going to get into the ugly stage, but it will work out beautifully in the end. There are two videos.

Here's what it looks like when done adding Neutral Tint.

Two more videos showing how I add Neutral Tint - this is really going to change the image - I'm asking you to trust me...

Here's what it looks like when done.

I want to even out the overall look of the flowers and then rework the background.

Even if you don't need to even out the colors like I did, you must re-wet the entire image the way I show in the next video. Make sure you have your Neutral Tint mixed and ready for you first.

While the paper is still wet, but not saturated, I add Neutral Tint keeping aware of how the it is softening and spreading. If it's spreading too much, add a creamier application, if it's not spreading enough and a thinner amount when applying the Neutral Tint. Here's two videos showing how I did it.

Here's what it looks like when done.

I want to remove the masking, but the paper has to be completely dry, so while waiting for the paper to dry completely, we can add Burnt Sienna to the male "parts" of the flower. I created Burnt Sienna by mixing Permanent Rose and Transparent Yellow and a "touch of Thalo Blue. I added it wet on dry as shown in the next video.

Here's what it looks like when done.

Now that the paper is dry we can remove the masking.

Here's what it looks like when done.

Let's detail the "parts"

Here's what it looks like when done.

Make Burnt Sienna by mixing Transparent Yellow and Permanent Rose and a touch of Thalo Blue so we can start detailing the "parts" of the flowers.

Here's what it looks like when done.

Make orange by mixing Transparent Yellow and Permanent Rose, and add more Thalo Blue to the Burnt Sienna to make it darker so we can detail more of the "Parts" of the flowers.

Here's what it looks like when done.

Now to add more focus the the "parts" by surrounding them with Transparent Yellow.

Here's what it looks like when done.

Now to tone down the harshness of the masking areas and to set back the right most flower.

Now to fix the dark background, getting it wet and loosening the pigment and then removing some of the darks, and then softening and adding color.

Here's what it looks like when done.

Next video was not turned on soon enough, sorry, I added a little Thalo Blue with a little Neutral Tint very thin, and wet on dry to the little white edge of the bottom petal edge.

Here's what it looks like when done.

Here are some variations on cropping the image with Mats to fit a 16 x 20 Frame. The inside measures are 12 x 16, 10 x 13 and finally 8 x 10.

So many ways to enjoy your finished image.