First, add the liquid frisket to the places on the tree that are to be saved as white. Believe it or not there's not a lot of white spaces on the bark of the tree.
Now add Transparent Yellow onto dry paper where the grasses are, and then soften the edge, and pull some of the yellow into the background of the image as shown.

Paint a light amount of Thalo Blue, over the whole image of the tree, don't worry about shading, we just want to have the entire tree blocked in. This is truly the hardest part of the painting. 

We added more liquid frisket onto the oak tree to indicate the bark AND movement. Once the frisket was dry, we added a transparent wash of Permanent Rose over the tree. Where there is dark shading on the tree, we just added a darker value of the permanent rose.

One the Permanent Rose layer dried, e added more liquid frisket onto the oak tree to indicate the bark AND movement. We also added liquid frisket with a ruling pen to begin the branch shapes which are shown below.

Once the frisket was dry, we added a transparent wash of Thalo Blue over the tree. Where there is dark shading on the tree, we just added a darker value of the permanent rose.

Here is a closeup of the frisket on the tree, indicating shape and movement.

Look for the Upper Right Corner to see the branches that were created by adding liquid frisket using the "ruling pen".

Since we basically have the tree "formed", let's work on the background. Using Transparent Yellow, please add it lightly to the background and soften all the edges. The entire background should have soft edges.

Now with Permanent Rose add it lightly just like we did with the Transparent Yellow to the background. Look closely for the glow of pinks in the background and add them like I did.

Now with Thalo Blue add it lightly to the background. Look closely for the glow of greens and blues in the background and add them like I did.

Now working on the tree, I've added the Thalo Blue increasing the deeper value to the upper right. This is where we left off in class.

We deepened the Thalo Blue, and then once dry, added more frisket to increase the bark texture.

We deepened the Thalo Blue, and then once dry, added more frisket to increase the bark texture, we really needed to connect the bark texture all over the main branches AND the "negative" shapes of the wild thin branches, as shown to the left, using the ruling pen.

Once the frisket dried, we added Winsor Violet. Make sure you have enough color mixed in your pan to paint the whole tree. I've demonstrated painting the violet on the tree, and if the area required a deeper value I layed a thicker amount of Violet right where it was needed, wet into wet.

You can really see the Branch texture show up.

We are going to work on the background. Adding thin amounts of Permanent Rose, wet on dry. Keeping in mind, soft edges, and where we want the "glow" to be, by constantly looking at our foto reference.

This image was taken in the spring, so the pink glow around the branches are actually the sun hitting the buds that are just leafing out.

We are going to work on the background. Adding thin amounts of Thalo Blue, we are working in the trees and the bushes in the background, giving them a little more weight and blocking the shapes in.

We are going to work on the background. Adding thin amounts of Transparent Yellow, we are now blending the whole background in. We have to use this color lightly, as yellow is such a strong color.

We are finally working on the grass in the background. Using Thalo Blue, just blolck in the shapes and you see them AND as they have been drawn in. Get used to looking, searching and then finding. It's great to work lightly, as you can always get this darker.

We added our "darks", which is a mixture of Indigo, Indanthrene Blue and Neutral Tint. I started adding it to the lower branches at the left and worked my way to the trunk of the tree. Notice I didn't "work" all of the branches, or work any fine branches, I just wanted to get my darks in, so I could remove the frisket. Click on this image to enlarge so you can see that I added darks wet on wet in certain areas, like the upper right hand corner. I worked thin amounts of color over the center branches.

Once the darks are completely dry, we removed the frisket with a rubber cement pick-up eraser. Rub your fingertips over the paper, feeling for stray bits of frisket that haven't been removed, so you can remove them. We want all the frisket on the tree branches to be removed.
 

What a difference! Now we will add quick washes to tone this down.

Get your Permanent Rose ready, we need to have enough color worked into the "well" so we can just move the color over the darks. We need to work quickly, and gently at the same time. We are painting over dried "darks" and if we disturb the darks too much, they will bleed and muddy up all the color we want to add.

I added light amounts of Rose starting at the left hand side working my way over to the trunk and started working heavier, notice I left the lowest trunk alone!

Get your Thalo Blue ready, I added this color thickly from the left and worked it all the way to the trunk and worked my way down. Again you must work quickly and with a light touch.

Homework for next week is to work all of your branches. Work with all the colors we have been using, please build up your branches so we can just work the background and grass next week in class.

I worked Permanent Rose into the branches, and then started to increase the "mass" by ramification. I just love that word.

I worked the whole tree.

Working with Thalo Blue, I went over the Perm Rose, and extended beyond the line, and also increased more of the mass of branches.

Again I worked over the whole tree.

Once more I added the Permanent Rose, and extended beyond what was added with the Thalo Blue, and added to the "mass" of branches.

Again, I worked the whole tree.

This time, I added some darks to the "mass" of branches. I worked mainly with Indanthrene blue and Indigo. I worked with thin washes compared to thick washes, but I did increase the value changes.

I used a mixture of Thalo Blue, really wet, but using a lot more pigment than usual. I painted very loose, and directional, like a seismograph (sp) to indicate the movement of grass. Once it was painted, and it started to set in, I ran over it with a damp clean brush.

Once dry, I then used a wash of Hookers Green to go over the Thalo Blue "lines" that were just added. As I painted, I moved across the thalo lines and joined them, to suggest the shadows. If the area needed to go darker in tone, I dropped more Hookers green while the area was wet.

Once dry, I painted more lines with the Thalo Blue, indicating movement and shadow. We really have to anchor the tree so I am really darkening the grass shadow that merge into the tree. This will anchor the tree into the foreground.

I am really loving this image. 

Better late than never! This was so much fun to finish.