Home Up 



 

Don't forget to click on the images to view a larger image! If there is a + sign on your "cursor", you can click to view the image even larger.

This is my painting of my grandmas climbing rose in her backyard from Jackson & Perkins called "Iceberg".

This is on Arches 156lb Cold Pressed paper stretched over stretcher bars 48" h x 30" w
 

The most recent image of where we left off from class will always be posted below to the right. The one on the left is where we left off back in June and the one on the right is from August 24th!

 

 
Here is the "map" of the areas that we are going to mask off using the new "low tack" contact paper.

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
Working wet on wet, drop in Thalo Blue on the bottom half of the rose, and also take a good look at the upper right hand corner of the rose and notice the "threads" of blue going towards the center of the rose!
 
Step 23

Working with Indanthrene Blue, work a creamy amount and add it wet on dry to the underside edge of the petals as shown, and then soften. Don't be concerned with blossoming or backwashes, as when we work wet on wet over this area, it will all even out with the final glazes.

 
Step 24

We will now work WOW - wet on wet

Mix up a creamy amount of French Ultramarine and have that ready before wetting your entire image.

Once the image is completely saturated, clean off your edges of excess water, in case we need to shift the image around we don't want excess water dripping down through our glazes.

Then add the creamy amount of French Ultramarine along the upper right edge and down through the bottom as shown. Let it alone and tilt your image to move the paint with gravity vs. moving it around with a paint brush.

 
Step 25

Once dry, we are going to work WOW again - Wet on Wet, but this time with Permanent Rose. Some of us just wanted it in the upper painting, some of the class wanted permanent rose all the way down to the bottom too. This is your choice!

Notice how I added the perm rose, and then just let is soften out, I tilted the image around to help it soften, and I left it alone.

 
Step 26

Once the image is completely dry, and I do stress completely dry, then remove your frisket.

Then add water to saturate the whole painting and then add Thalo Blue to the bottom edges of your image a shown. The White Highlights are too harsh, and by giving them a little bit of blue it tones it down just a bit.

 

 
 
Step 27

Starting with Transparent Yellow, add it to the center, wet on dry and soften as needed on the right hand side and work it over to the left as shown.

With Thalo Blue, add it wet on dry lightly to the darker parts of the center, and to the base of the female part as shown.

With Permanent Rose add it wet on dry and break up the center female parts, add it to the edges of the parts in the center, and for the left edge filaments, add it heavier on the left side as shown. The red next to the green is very exciting.

With Burnt Sienna, Yellow & a little Perm Rose mix up and clean up the edges of the male parts on the left hand side and darken the center parts as shown.

I've used an appropriate brush, since I am detailing out I'm using smaller brushes. Here I've used the following ranges 2, 3, 4, 6 and a softening brush.

It's really getting there......

 
Step 28

I first wet the bottom half of the painting with clear water and then glazed Thalo Blue to deepen and tone down the jumpiness of the colors.

I then used Indanthrene Blue to define and refine the petals edges wet on dry and softened as needed on the bottom petals.

I continued with Indanthrene and added a light amount for the petals on the top half, breaking up shapes and going lightly.

Once everything was dry I went in with a light amount of Thalo Blue and added a glaze over those shapes to settle the indanthrene down.

Now to go back to the center of the rose and to define and refine the center to really make it pop!